Are you ever watching a show and have to pause and catch your breath because the outfits are so beautiful? Perhaps it’s less beautiful, more fascinating, as there are some pretty incredible sci-fi wardrobes out there after all. The wardrobe department has such a vital role in making a film feel believable, but they rarely get their time in the spotlight. We’ve set out to change all that and we’re shining a light on the under-appreciated stars that make our favourite shows what they really are. So, here’s to all the great wardrobe teams out there!
The Queen’s Gambit
The Queen’s Gambit has received praise from all kinds of places in a short period of time. Everywhere from the world of poker, to the world of literature and renowned author Stephen King, people have something great to say about it. The story is undeniably brilliant, the acting flawless, but can we take a moment to appreciate the wardrobe? The outfits are classic examples of 60s clothing, but each of them is more than just a style, all of the clothes say something about the central character, Beth Harmon. Cleverly designed by Berlin-based couturier Gabriel Binder, the outfits waver between perfectly put together and slightly edgy. They reflect Harmon’s troubled side, struggling with addiction and identity, as well as her obvious skill and genius. Gabriel spent a great deal of time trying to reflect what was going on in Beth’s mind, using checks in many of her outfits as a subtle but clear link to the chessboard. You’ll also notice how, in the first scene, Beth wears a dress that was made for her by her mother, in a muted green tone. During the scene at the Moscow tournament, Gabriel intentionally put Beth in the same colour green, but in a put-together silhouette, allowing the viewer to recognise that Beth is ‘home’ once again.
Bridgerton
Bridgerton is one of the shows on Netflix that everybody is talking about and, whilst most of the chatter is about the sheer drama of it all, plenty of the chatter is about the incredible wardrobe. Over the course of the show so far there have been no less than 7,500 costume pieces created. This is in no small part down to the frequency with which women changed clothes in the Regency period. In just eight episodes of the show, there were ten balls. Ten balls meant huge numbers of corsets, petticoats, dresses, waistcoats – you name it and the characters would not be seen twice in it. As well as the balls, the women changed very regularly; they wore a different dress to every ball, of course, but they also changed throughout the day, having morning clothes and dinner clothes to contend with. The result is a wardrobe enthusiast’s dream, with everything you could possibly hope for from the era brought into the 21st century with highly pigmented colours and more beads than you could shake a stick at. Wardrobe coordinator Ellen Mirojnick was keen to do everything a little bigger and bolder with Bridgerton. More frills, more embroidery, more beads, more embellishment, more brocade and so much jewellery that an on-set jewellery designer was hired to create pieces especially for the show, in addition to the collections that they sourced from dealers across the world.
Godless
One of the shows that has remained relatively undiscovered, but deserves serious attention from fashion enthusiasts, is Godless. This mini-series dived into the world of the Wild West, with an unexpected twist – almost all of the characters are women. Betsy Heimman was in charge of the wardrobe for this production and spent a great deal of time searching out real-life examples of unconventional women from the Old West. She found photos of farmworkers with their skirts pulled up and tucked into their belts, showing their pantaloons. They did this not to be shocking, but so that they could keep up with the work that was expected of them. She borrowed bits of history like this and employed it in her dressing of the cast, always sticking to a realistic textile palette of wools, silks and linens. Visually, she’s done an incredible job, but her storytelling through clothing is just as special.